Hi everyone, hope you're all doing great!
I currently live and work in Europe, and I've recently been offered a postdoctoral research position at the University of Tokyo. While we're still finalizing some details, I'm in the process of evaluating the logistical aspects before making a final decision.
I applied for this position because I was genuinely fascinated by the project and, I’ll admit, I have a bit of a romanticized idea of living in Japan. I'd really love to give it a shot.
Without diving into the many other factors I'm already researching (like language and cultural barriers, visas, housing, work-life balance, etc.), I’d really appreciate your input on just one thing: how feasible is it to live in Tokyo on the proposed salary?
The offer is for about 4 million yen per year (pre-tax). I understand that lifestyle, personal goals, and location within Tokyo all play a role, and I'm not expecting to save much during these three years. My main concern is simply to not end the contract with less money than I started with. Ideally, I'd at least break even without needing to dip into existing savings.
For context, I managed to live on a slightly lower salary during a one-year stay in London, but I know comparing cities across currencies and countries is far from perfect.
Any insights, especially from those who have been in a similar position or live in Tokyo, would be hugely appreciated!
Thanks so much!
Cheers
by Oi_Oi_Chotto_Matte
17 comments
Yes doable
Doable if you’re single and won’t travel much. I wouldn’t expect to save much either, but depending on lifestyle you could probably save some.
For context some people survive in Tokyo on lower salaries so it’s all just how you manage your money.
Tons of people make do with less in Tokyo, so yes it’s doable. However these are, more often than not, uneducated Japanese people who don’t necessarily want or need to “experience Tokyo” in the way that a non-Japanese person romanticizing the city might. Their idea of a fun night might be cracking a couple chuhais while watching some baseball game on TV.
Things will be very tight, and unless UTokyo is offering a separate accommodation allowance, you’ll probably end up living in a shoebox in an inconvenient part of town. The lowest average yearly income in Tokyo 23ku for example is Katsushika-ku (5 million yen). So you’d be lower than that.
You’ll have basically nothing to spare for going out with people, weekend trips, cultural experiences, exploring the rest of the country, or much else. Maybe if you really enjoy long walks, bike rides, or just people watching that could work. I guess the question you should ask yourself is, would you find simply living/working in Tokyo valuable enough in its own right, or does your idea of enjoying life in the city require a bit to spare?
It’s not a luxury, but most young Japanese people live in Tokyo on an annual income below that.
It’s all subjective. There are eikaiwa workers earning less than that who will think it’s a fortune and have never stopped living as students. Professionals chasing a career would balk at the idea. Young Japanese might find it acceptable as they have a large house in their hometown with family and the prospect of full time employment further down the line. They’ll also have familial income, greater knowledge of how to save money, better access to the job market to switch positions etc.
Like others said, it is doable. During the one year I went to language school, I lived on a monthly budget of 200,000JPY and it felt comfortable. Then again I didn’t go partying a lot and tried to cook at home etc.
Rent will be the biggest expense and you can reduce it by living outside of Tokyo and commuting in. Companies usually pay for your monthly ticket, so it doesn’t matter if the train is more expensive.
Just do it and figure out the best way for you along the way
You can do it
doable. im on 4.5mil a year living in a 70,000¥ 1DK relatively nice mansion a 10 min walk from a main station. i still manage to go out with friends like once a week and am not terribly pinching pennies. is all about your lifestyle though.
Shoot for 4M after tax
Sure can, just need to be wise about shopping smart! Cooking at home instead of gaishoku, if buying meals, get them half price etc at the super… Might need to live in an older place or one further out of town
It’s doable with a very simple life, but might not enjoy enough. Try to negotiate higher.
The university cafeteria is highly subsidized and you will be able to keep most meal costs below 400 yen. You will end up taking most of your meals there because you will be expected to be present on site while the lab PI is there which will include all lunches and dinners, potentially breakfast too.
Post doc work in Japan in the polar opposite of undergrad university life.
I lived on less (3.6m) in 1998, but office paid for my monthly train pass. I went dancing and took a lot of dance lessons; museums, and traveled to onsens. Best time of my life.
Interesting, I’m thinking about the same move, from Europe to Japan as Postdoc at U Tokyo with approx. 4mio yen and I was also worried about the salary. As far as I can see now, housing has gone up the last few years, so it can take up 40% of the salary, since it’s also slightly more difficult to find an apartment as a foreigner than as native. However, depending on your lifestyle, everything else can be quite cheap (eating out ~ 5 Euro, public Onsen ~ 10€, izakaya night with sake ~ 10€) and also traveling is comparatively cheaper than in Europe. What worries me is not life in Japan, but rather how often I’ll visit my family in Europe (half a monthly salary?) and how much funds the university has for conferences (seems to be much much lower than the ERC-fed place I would come from). For sure, it’s not a place where you can save money, but you might already know that.
Quickest way to end up hating Japan with that salary imo. How will you save enough for retirement?
For reference, the starting salary at some Japanese companies is 25~300,000/month for fresh college graduates entering the workforce.
After tax that would be about 19~240,000/month.
Count on tax being about 25% of your income.
It is doable, but depending on housing you might be a little far from a station.
But that salary sounds doable.
Especially if the university buys your monthly bus/train pass.
Pro tip, if you live further away you might be able to swing getting a larger area pass which can save money when you are out and about when not working.
For example I lived in Kyoto and my apartment was very far from work. Because of this I could an all-city bus pass and go wherever for free.
Good luck to you!
It’s a student lifestyle basically. The first 2 years you don’t pay the 10% resident tax, so maybe you’ll have about 280-290,000 in pocket each month? Definitely ask them that. If you want to buy a ticket home once a year, it’ll be about 200,000 just for that during the summer. Rent is probably going to work out cheaper but rooms are very small. I know students who live in 7 sqm “apartments”. I’d try to get a university dorm to have some basic standard and reasonable commute and also not to have the headache of finding it on the private market when you arrive. Supermarket food in Tokyo is more expensive than Aldi/Lidl in Europe. This will get a defensive reaction from some but I spend a lot of time in Tokyo and Europe and it’s not even close. But overall, it’s doable and expect to continue living like a university student. You’re young so it will most likely be a fun adventure.
If you have other options, also take into account what follows after those three years. If you intend to return to Europe afterwards, you may miss out on building a professional network there. Although in academia, if you have a good publication record it may not matter as much.