Hey!
I’ve just completed Shimanami Kaido (August 2025) and thought I would share my experience in case it shortens the research process for anyone.
I was travelling alone and wanted to add the SK into my itinerary after a work trip in Hiroshima. I didn’t want to be tied to a strict travel plan, so I arranged all of the trip within 48hrs of arriving into Onomichi, where I decided I would be starting the route. My plan was to start at Onomichi, stop for a night in Omishima, complete the route through to Imabari the next day and take the bus back up to Onomichi same day.
I should note early on something that other posts have failed to mention – time of year. Most cyclists do the SK in spring or autumn when the temperature is moderate. August is considered a somewhat mad time of year to do the route, given summer temperatures (it was 35c when I did it.) That said, there is a good wind for most of the route and if you have an e-assist or fully electronic bike and come prepared for heat you will not suffer (too much). I made sure I had sun team, electrolytes and was glad I opted for a white helmet. Most cyclists were doing the route wearing clothes that covered their legs and arms, some were covered head to toe. I was in European sportswear, ie. Shorts, vest, trainers, sunglasses and was OK, but the locals were definitely bemused at points to see someone not covering up.
I was a little worried about hiring a bike, given what sounded like a lot of complications / considerations around one way hire etc. However I opted for the official Shimanami Kaido rental service on the basis that you could drop the bike off anywhere along the route. I did not reserve ahead, reading that there are a number of first come first served bikes available on the day.
With the rental station opening at 7am, I travelled by Shinkansen from Hiroshima Station early in the morning, arriving at Shin-Onomichi at just before 7am. I had to wait 30mins for a bus and travelled 20ish mins from here to Onomichi train station, where I checked a suitcase into a locker. NB. the lockers at the station are 600Y, though I later saw lockers at the port on the way to the ferry station for 300Y.
The bike rental is just nearby, search ‘Onomichi Port Bicycle Rental Terminal’. By the time I arrived, just after 8am, there was still a large choice of bicycles. I opted for an e-assist bike, largely because I heard the climbs along the SK were steep and because this bike had a basket on the front (no others had a basket option). I had also heard a back pack would be difficult and I wanted to travel comfortably for the next two days.
I’m glad of both the choice of e-assist bike and the basket, because the climbs were indeed extremely steep and long at points and the heat challenging. I would not recommend cycling with a backpack in hot weather. I saw a lot people without e-assist walking up the inclines unable to make the climb on regular bikes and looking like they hated life in this moment. Once you get off the bike and no longer have the wind, you feel it immediately and the sweat starts pouring out of you. Getting off on these inclines would easily add 30mins walking time per incline (which come each time there is a bridge to cross). If you are not a seasoned cyclist I 100% suggest the e-assist bike. If you are older or more fragile, I would suggest a fully electronic bike but bear in mind some rental places do not allow overnight rental of electronic bikes and they have to be returned within one day.
The people at the rental shop were friendly, soft spoken Japanese people. They talked you through how the electronic controls worked and gave you a map with a range of routes to follow. The most common ‘suggested’ route is in blue, whilst there are also intermediate (orange) and advanced (red routes). They advised me that my route to my accommodation on Omishima would take around 4hrs, whilst the remaining route from Omishima to Imabari would take just over 3. The bike rental comes with a helmet and integrated key and lock system for your bike. The SK rental service has lots of stops along the route (maybe 10-15) , so you are able to choose where you will drop your bike off. You can also stop in if you have issues with your bike or need to change your battery. (I was advised to stop at Omishima to change my battery pack though it was only 25% down after the first day and another 25% after completing the second. I did change my battery as my accommodation was super close to the SK station, so I swung by, showed the lady in charge and she insisted I take a fresh one.)
Setting off in Onomichi you make your way to a ferry port and take a 5min journey across to Mukaishimacho port. On the other side you go, following the blue road markings on the road. I was lucky in that I got adopted by a Japanese cyclist who’d done the SK many times and who took it upon himself to guide me to my accommodation in Omishima that day. As a result I didn’t have to figure things out too much myself at this stage, but from later experience I would say it’s valuable to keep the paper route map given and to cross reference this with a phone map when needed. Your map will not show cycle routes in the area!
The route on the Onomichi side takes you largely through small towns with industrial commerce. My friend/guide took me to some lesser visited sites like the bike shrine where cyclists stop off for blessings and safety on the roads (I would not detour for this unless you’re a particularly nervous cyclist). We also stopped off at one of the Dolce gelato shops along the route – on Ikuchi Island – which was an absolute delight. I will dream of the sea salt and milk flavour herein. On the point of food – I would say don’t over plan the sustenance. There are plenty of shops along the way and looking at how my friend operated, he brought very little with him and stopped off regularly to buy cold drinks and food when he needed. So don’t come laden with supplies, there are shops frequently along the route, with a specific focus on cyclists.
Setting off at just before 9am, we arrived at my accommodation at 1.30pm, with several stops along the way. I was pretty happy to arrive early and know that I could unwind, take a nap, or plan my onward journey without rushing, but if you’re well rested and hungry for exploration, there are many other ways to fill the day.
I booked a dorm room at the I-Link Hostel and Cafe at Omishima 36hrs before arrival and was happy with my choice. It’s worth noting that the accommodation was almost empty bar four other cyclists, so when you’re told online that there are only X number of spaces left at the accommodation, this probably means for a specific price, rather than to denote availability overall. My accommodation was extremely clean and the staff provided pyjamas, towels, toiletries, a shower and make up area, separate toilets, cafe and laundry (detergent included in fee, 300Y plus 100Y for drying). The space was peaceful, maybe too peaceful, but I was happy to rest after my early start.
I opted for dinner at the I Link and was surprised to get a delicious five course meal that I was unable to finish. There was a convenience store across the road where I also bought rehydration drinks and snacks. I would say the location of the I Link was pretty optimal given its proximity to the SK rental hub and shop, but there is very little in general in the area or along this part of the route to interact with. You’re very much amongst nature and the not-unattractive barrenness of the area.
I hit the sack at about 9.30pm with the aim to wake up at 7am and get going by 8am to beat the heat. I managed to get going by around 9am and being guideless this time, I enjoyed part of the morning going off piste, turning off into small villages and seeing what rural life looks like on these islands. I also cycled off the main route by the water, where the road often merged with the SK route after short distances. I’d say this part of the SK becomes much interesting – there is more greenery, waterside beauty and less of the isolated industrial feel that the Onomichi – Omishima part had. There were some sections where it felt possible to find secluded beaches by foot, eg. At the base of the Hakata-Oshima bridge coming from Omishima, but I didn’t do this as I was a female travelling alone. The climbs towards Imabari are longer and steeper, but if you have a e-assist it is all pretty easy and the surrounding nature makes the experience pretty elating. I really enjoyed this part of the route.
Imabari is quite suburban (though empty feeling, as the rest of the route) and the nature peters out as you reach the city centre. I reached the SK bicycle rental at 12.45pm, handed my bike back, bought some lunch and managed to catch a bus heading towards Onomichi at just past 1pm. You take the bus to Fukuoka, change at a small service station at Innoshima-Ohashi and continue onto Onomichi from there. There is no direct bus and the wait at Innoshima-Ohashi was 45mins. I paid 1100Y for the first leg and around 600Y for the second.
I would say that 2 days to do the Onomichi-Imabari route one way is perfect. You could do it all in one day, but my sense is that this would feel pressured and quite stressful. Unless you’re mad on cycling I would also suggest that doing the route one way is enough. The thought of retracing my steps – or bringing my bike back – would not appeal to me.
Overall I really enjoyed the experience, feeling I would never see a part of Japan like this without visiting it by bike. The whole organisation on the Japanese side was pretty faultless and I felt very little anxiety throughout. That said, it felt a shame that there was so little around the route itself, which felt a little post-apocalyptic and desolate at times. There were moments where I felt I understood why islands like this suffer depopulation issues and considered whether the experience feel more celebratory were local businesses to offer a glimpse into their operation or some initiatives be devised to encourage cyclists to linger. That said, the touristification of places comes with many downsides so maybe it’s good to enjoy the SK for what it is.
In conclusion, items needed:
* A bag that you don’t have to carry on your back
* Sun cream if travelling in sunny conditions
* A small towel to wipe your face. I had this on my shoulder whilst cycling and it was invaluable
* A battery pack to make sure you can navigate throughout your adventure (but your accommodation will likely have a range of ports for you to charge from too)
* A change of clothing, though possible to lounge in provided pyjamas
Not necessary:
* Water bottle/thermos (not many water stations to refill at unfortunately)
* Food – lots of shops along the way, with sushi, breads and ready meals + a microwave for reheating. The food may not be your ideal way of eating, but you won’t go hungry
* Hat – you’ll be wearing a helmet anyway
* Cash – the ferry does not take card payments, alongside the bus, laundry etc
* Bike lock, unless taking own bike
* Basic toiletries
* Swimming costume – I didn’t see anybody swimming in the sea, even at the height of summer and my guide told me swimming isn’t really a thing along the SK. I would say that what I saw would correlate, although I did see some literature encouraging cyclists to keep cool during summer by stopping off at swimming spots
A final tip. Japanese people are pretty reserved until you speak to them or ask them for help. Once you breach the gap you’ll find they are ready to help and befriend you, despite any language barrier.
Enjoy your adventure on the Shimanami Kaido and feel free to reach out!
by Perfect_Injury_3435