Osaka’s beloved “konamon” dishes — takoyaki and okonomiyaki — are facing a wave of closures, raising fears that the city’s signature street foods may be losing ground.
From January to July, 17 such shops across Japan went bankrupt, the highest on record, with okonomiyaki restaurants making up 80 percent of the total. Owners cite soaring ingredient prices, labor shortages, and rising utility costs as key pressures.
Wheat, eggs, and pork belly have all become markedly more expensive, while octopus — the star of takoyaki — now costs more than tuna by weight. “Everything from pork and eggs to squid has gone up in price so quickly,” said Hiroaki Nagata, manager of the long-running shop Maruju in Osaka. “Cheap comfort foods are no longer cheap.”
Some shops are preparing to raise prices again this fall, hoping customers will accept increases if paired with better portions or quality. But regulars are already feeling the pinch: “It was 300 yen, then 350, now 400 this year,” said one customer. “It’s expensive, but sometimes you just crave that sauce flavor.”
Once a symbol of Osaka’s everyday life, the future of these humble but iconic dishes now looks uncertain.
by MagazineKey4532