Can't sleep so figured I'd do a little write up of my trip so far.
For my first week I've stayed in Shichijo and holy hell, from the first second of arriving it's so noticeable just how many tourists there are. Maybe I stayed in a quieter area on my first trip here 10 yrs ago, but the ratio of tourists to locals here seems waaaaayyy off.
Day 1: After a 13hr flight to Hong Kong, a full day exploring HK and genuinely becoming more sweat than man, a 3-4 hr flight to KIX and arriving in Kyoto at 8am I was ready for a shower and a sleep. But I couldn't, so I powered through.
Walked down the river to Tofukuji which was beyond pleasant, had lunch at Dragon Burger because at that point I just wanted western style comfort food. I think they might have been the best fries I've ever eaten. Explored a little then wandered up to Team Labs Biovortex for which I had a reservation. Incredible. Was not too crowded considering it was opening day and the staff are great, helpful and friendly and keep things moving along nicely. Loved every second of this. With no sleep I honestly felt like I was tripping for some of the exhibits.
Day 2: Nintendo Museum. It's okay. I had fun. Would I go again? Probably not. A "single rider" type queue for the Big Controller games would have been nice so you could team up with other solo visitors. As it stands I had to skip that and have a second go on the Ultra Machine instead. I was excited to buy some merch but what's on offer isn't that great imo. Got a few of the blind boxes and the special anniversary book and called it a day.
Walked down to Uji after this which was lovely. The hike up the mountain and the view from the top a highlight. I bought some matcha, I ate some matcha, I drank some matcha. I'm not really clued up on any of it so just bought what looked nice, will probably gift a tin or two for someone's Christmas present.
Day 3: Kifune/Kurama. (Note: is it kiFune or kiBune? I've seen it spelled both ways) Incredible. The outside "on river" dining season is finished, in fact most of the restaurants were just fully shut and I can't help think they're missing a trick here as the weather is still great and plenty of potential custom, a licensing issue maybe? Great hike though, although I think I picked the harder option going from Kifune to Kurama, my thoughts being I wanted to stop at the onsen in Kurama before heading back to my hotel, but at the end of the hike I just wanted to head back. The train ride there and back is lovely too.
I had other stuff pencilled in for the rest of the day but I thought I earned a well deserved rest so chilled at the hotel for the rest of the day.
Day 4: the rest was needed and woke up early feeling energized so headed to Fushimi Inari for an early morning stroll. Still as special and spectacular as the first time I went. It's such a beautiful place. Glad I went early as on my way back to the station there were HORDES of people and coach loads all arriving.
There were still a few main characters on my hike up with their tripods and "looking wistfully into the distance Instagram poses" but not too many. I will happily stop for a second if I see someone trying to take a quick picture, but if you're treating the place as your own private photo shoot location then get fucked honestly, I'm walking past… slowly…
A quick stop at the hotel then went to nearby Sanjūsangendō Temple. I was absolutely blown away here, the main hall with the 1001 statues and the God statues was so humbling. I swear the eyes of the God statues look so real and feel like they're watching you. I'm not religious but I couldn't help myself giving each one a quick bow. I wish I could have taken pictures here but it's forbidden. Glad I've seen it with my own two eyes regardless.
Another quick stop at the hotel and then on to Kiyomizu. I missed out on this on my last trip but holy hell I'm glad I went this time. It's spectacular. The most heavily touristy place I've been so far but it's worth it for the views.
I wanted to explore Gion after this but honestly, there's so many tourists here that what's the point, all I'd see is the backs of people's heads so gave up on the idea. I'll try again sometime in the future in the middle of the night. I popped into K36 bar for a couple of cocktails at sunset. Luckily the queue wasn't too big and got a table fairly quickly. Great view of the pagoda from the top. The hotel itself is something else, felt like I was sneaking into a crime boss' compound. Maybe I'll stay here when I win the lottery.
Had dinner at Hikiniku Tocome for which I had a reservation, insane flavors for what is basically posh hamburger patties. Chef was great and slid me an extra for no charge.
Day 5: Lake Biwa cruise. Arrived at Otsu port for a prebooked cruise around Biwako and it's islands. Probably my highlight so far. At first I was a little nervous as I appeared to be the only foreigner on the boat and everyone else looked to be Japanese retirees. But everyone was lovely, and had a nice time with the couple and lady I shared a table with and managed to have a few conversations in broken English/Japanese and a lot of Google translate. Definitely worth it. Fell in love with one of the tour guides/helpers. Chikibu Island in particular was amazing. At the top there's a lookout to a torii gate on the cliff side which looks unreal. you're given 2 ceramic discs which you put your name on one, and a wish on the other, and your have to launch the discs and try and get it through the torii gate. First throw went a bit high but I ABSOLUTELY NAILED my second throw to the applause of all my fellow passengers. Felt like a rock star.
The boat got back into port at sunset at which point there was Otsu Matsuri happening so wandered around town for a couple of hours taking in the sights of the lit up floats. I had wanted to eat here at some of the food stalls but there wasn't much variety on offer and the queues were long.
Day 6: I had going back to Otsu Festival for it's 2nd day penciled in but I decided to give it a miss and rest and do the dreaded laundry. I think I've seen enough Matsuri floats between the previous day and my previous Japan trip… Until next trip at least anyway. Headed to the Yokai festival at Toei Studio Park. It was ok. Fairly brief, but the parade was fun and got some cool merch and photos of the performers. Then, as I was in the general area decided to go to Arashiyama as apparently there are illuminations going on at the bamboo forest. Now, I hated the bamboo forest last time I went and vowed never to return, but what the hell, it might be better all lit up. The Illumination bit is ticketed and I was walking up the main path to where was a sign saying sold out. Walked a bit further to where the actual entrance was and it didn't look all that special so headed back and when I passed the same point where it previously said sold out there was now a sign saying tickets on sale and a HUUUUUGGEEE queue so I noped out of that and travelled back to Kyoto. The forest did look a bit nicer in the dark and with lights though, I will say that. Tried to get Ramen at Honke Daiichi-Asahi but there was, again, a HUUUUUUGE queue outside so I noped out of that too, got a bowl from near my hotel.
Day 7: a very very early start to get the train to Amanohashidate. I wanted to get some snaps of the Tango train going over Yurakawa bridge so ended up getting the 5.30am train from Kyoto to make it for into my itinerary. You go through a lovely little village on the way to the bridge from Tango Yura station and I'm glad I took the detour. Then on to Amanohashidate itself, great views from the view land and I forgot how much fun a chairlift is. Walked along the sandbar to Kasamatsu park where I basically did the same thing as view land but from a different angle. Then the bus to Ine where I took the ferry tour and dodged the seagulls, surprised I didn't get pooed on. Ine is great, I had wanted to stay until sunrise but by the time it got to about 4pm it was overcast and raining and I was starting to lag energy wise so got the bus back to Miyazu where I stayed the night at the Marriot. Highly recommend the hotel and also getting the tourist day pass (I booked it via Ride app so it was all digital, which saved time trying to get the paper ticket from somewhere on my outward journey). I wanted to eat at nearby Kozeni Sushi but when I went for a dinner time stroll it was closed and the guy who runs out said he has sold out.
Other thoughts/points:
THE AMOUNT OF SMELLY GAIJIN. I've read Japanese people don't really use deodorant, which is fine, and maybe that's why some tourists choose to forego deodorant in case the perfume smell offends BUT FOR THE LOVE OF GOD it is better to use some than have everyone have to smell your stinky ass BO. PLEASE TAKE CARE OF YOUR PERSONAL HYGIENE.
Even with them going viral on social media I had forgotten how much the conbini egg mayo sandwiches are like crack. I don't know what they put in them but 🤤
Unless I'm misremembering the drinks game seems to be lacking compared to when I was here last. I remember all sorts of fun new drinks but there's barely any choice from the vending machines and conbinis I've been to so far. I remember a really nice strawberry milky fizzy soda (calpis?) and Halloween Fanta(?).
AMERICANS. Please. Learn to use your inside voices. There is nothing quite as jarring as having a peaceful stroll through a neighborhood and suddenly hearing your loud, shrill, annoying voices (no offence).
by TommyDickFingers85