PRE-TRIP
Some background for context. I’m in my mid-forties, my health has been yo-yoing the past few years and I have a bad right leg (broken hip + busted knee from an old injury).
While I did visit Japan last year in spring 2024 for this trip I had one goal, climb a mountain! Ok so, this has been a bucketlist item of mine that I always saw as “haha, never-gonna-happen.” But after a health scare… anyway after some digging I settled on Mount Takao.
I wanted to experience Japan in the autumn this time and that seemed like a popular daytrip for fall. Also it’s beginner friendly with the option of multiple trails and a chairlift for the descent.
I started going on 5 kms daily walks 3 months in advance to prepare. All the main bookings were made in late March or early April, which is why the prices seem low for an October trip.
The goal, experience Japan in autumn and hike up Mt. Takao!
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DAY 0 (Singapore Airlines, KIX, Arriving in Osaka)
Singapore Airlines – 8/10
Multi-city round ticket, Economy. $600 + $60 for seat selection. Landing at KIX, Osaka. Leaving from Narita, Tokyo.
As an airline this was a comfortable trip. Service is top shelf, the meals decent and a 25kg check-in weight allowance. The ongoing flight included a one hour layover in Singapore so I was worried about that but they’re super-efficient and even with a checked bag there were no issues. I will note that the chairs are rather narrow.
The first leg of the trip the lady sitting next to me was all elbows — and later all knees! On the second part of the journey I caught the attention of a toddler from the family one row over. For some reason she insisted on checking and rechecking the pouch of my seat. I’m not sure what she expected to find in there but she was persistent! The lady next to me this time turned out to be from Osaka and just returning from holiday, time just flew as we chatted (and the toddler’s exploration attempts!).
Once in KIX I noticed a lot had changed since last year. They finally completed the renovations and customs/immigration section was now massive. Last year I was one of only 5 people in the QR-code lane in the airport. This time, the majority were in that lane with only a few completing the paper version on-site. I actually timed it, Landed at 4:05 PM and was done with customs/immigration AND collected my bags at 4:20 PM. There were over 20 stations specifically for the Visit Japan Web QR-Code holders and everything was color coded depending on where you were classified so it moved ridiculously fast.
Tip Currently JR has a special offer for foreign tourist specifically for the Haruka Express to or from KIX. If you book your train ticket online through them (or like me, through Klook) then the ticket is heavily discounted, almost at half price. Also, it’s an open-timed ticket, so you’re not tied to a specific train or even a date. Just show up, redeem the QR code at the machine and board the train on the spot.
Shin-Osaka Station Hotel – 7.5/10
$86 per night, 5 nights.
Located 4 minutes away from Shin Osaka station this is your typical business hotel. Very clean and no frills it was a comfortable stay if rather basic. Because of the time of year + Expo 2025 the price was rather high but for Osaka it was basement bargain bin prices to be honest for this much space.
My only complaint was that after landing I did the fall-on-the-bed-to-be-embraced-by-fluffiness thing just to end up with a head injury. Turns out they use traditional buckwheat pillows (I think), just imagine a bag of Quaker Oats as your pillow and you’ve got it. Otherwise, they are a pretty solid place to stay and the location was VERY convenient, surprisingly quiet too.
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DAY 1 (Shrines, Osaka Castle, New Pillow)
Step count for the day = 32.7K steps
Today was the open (let’s explore Osaka day) taking it slow after a long flight. You saw the step count right? So you know that’s not what really happened. Ok, let’s GO GO GO!
First on the list, visit Samuhara Shrine. I heard they sell a special ring to ward off evil. Turns out you only qualify for that as a resident as its custom made. So I paid my respects and got a normal amulet, the priest was nice enough to actually write a wording spell and attach it too. I think the shrine is popular because by the time I left there was actually a very long queue of people waiting to pray.
Next stop is Osaka Castle. I got turned around a few times here because it took a while to find literally anything. Still, it end up as a highlight. The castle exterior is lovely and I opted for the boat ride as well, while waiting for that I again got lost on the grounds and found an area full of spider lilies in full bloom! So lucky, I heard they’re a September thing!
Leaving the boat I was handed a flyer for some Expo 2025 event thing, they had set up a food court of sorts just outside the castle in the baseball field so I figured why not, it was almost lunch time anyway.
I was enjoying my first Takoyaki of the trip right up until I got attacked by a murder hornet! Ok so it was just bee but dear god was it HUGE! Why are the bugs in Japan so big! I may or may not have jumped and screamed causing the entire bench to topple over and caused a fuss. I admit nothing!
Belly full and still a bit hyper I wanted to visit a few more shrines from my list. The Moss covered one (Hozenji Temple) and the lion head (Namba Yasaka Shrine). Got the first Omikuji of the trip, Great Blessings! This is going to be so ironic later, just wait.
Namba is sorta distracting to be honest. Lots of interesting food stalls and shops. At this point I was already at 25K steps and really starting to feel it, heavy with shopping bags I headed to my hotel… which is when I remembered that bludgeoning weapon of a pillow they had!
This is where the remaining steps come in. Just me, totally lost in Umeda, trying to find a department store that sold pillows and navigate my way back. Worth it, used that thing the whole trip!
Tip A random purchase today ended up the MVP of the trip. A rain + UV ultralight umbrella I picked up from the conbini for 1500 yen. Used it every single day including in the middle of a literal typhoon, and it actually held! Seriously get one, the compact type fits right into your purse without adding weight to it and Tokyo Hands has some really nice ones.
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DAY 2 (Himeji, Five Hep Mall)
Step count for the day = 23.2K steps
One of the things I wasn’t too sure of was the regional JR pass. I got the 7 day Sanyo Sanin Northern Kyushu Pass (voucher) for the trip and activated it today. I was worried it would limit my options but turns out it actually gave me more travel flexibility. Also, I want to note that even after some planned day trips got cancelled the Pass paid for itself twice over just from the base trips.
Anyway first day trip was one carried over from last year’s wishlist. Himeji! I always wanted to see the castle, because of my leg though I skipped the interior (7 flights of stairs!) and spent most of the day in Koko-in Garden. Gorgeous place and very serene, there is a little restaurant there and I strongly urge you to have a meal in it. The entire wall overlooking the waterfall is glass so no matter where you are seated you have a view of the Koi pond and waterfall. It was just the best!
Around Midday I was getting tired so back to Osaka, by the way if you ever visit Himeji just know the view outside the station is deceptive. The minute you step outside you’ll see the castle so your mind tricks you into thinking (Oh, it’s right there)… it’s a 20 minute walk, a bit longer if you’re me but yeah get ready for that.
Anyway, remember how I got lost in Umeda yesterday while looking for a pillow? Well, there was one Mall that caught my eye called Hep Five. I think it’s because of the giant red Ferris wheel on top of it (yes, ON TOP of the building). It was only after I bought a ticket and got ready to get on that I remembered something, I don’t like heights! Wait, why did I even want to do this! Eek! High, too high!
After a minor panic attack I was back on solid ground and remembered why I wanted to go here. They had an Ichiban Kuji store! D’oh! Anyway I really wanted to try that after watching quite a few youtubes about it. One epic fail later, I had a nice evening window shopping and trying different little treats.
The day was muddled a bit because on the way back I quite literally ran into my first bumping man (Butsukari otoko). The guy looked me in the eye before picking up speed to shoulder check me as hard as he could. Mind you, he was rather young and I’m old enough to be his mother so that was a really weird experience.
Tip There is a rather famous store in Kobe called Frantz. It seems they expanded because I came across a branch in Shin-Osaka station. Today I discovered why their “Magic Jars” are a must try item in Kobe. Seriously if you come across them get those Jars, they’re out of this world amazing and this is from someone that doesn’t care for pudding. Oh and they sell chocolate covered freeze dried strawberries in Narita airport. My family adored those, they are expensive but quality.
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DAY 3 (USJ)
Step count for the day = 26.5K steps
My Day in USJ…
Last year this was my most anticipated, most expensive, day of the trip. It was also the one day it rained in Kansai causing all the outdoor rides to close.
Guess what happened. You get three and the first two don’t count.
Sigh, the express passes were even more expensive this year because of horror nights. Tickets + 7 ride express pass = $302.
You know how you just get a feeling something is a bad idea? Like, if two small bad things happen while you’re on your way somewhere it’s best to just cancel least the third hit you there? Just me? Well that was this day for sure.
So I wanted to start the day relaxed. The first ride on the express pass was at 10am so I figured I’ll get on the train around 8:30 or 9, loads of time since the trip is only 30 minutes tops.
Now, I had 2 smaller incidents just from the hotel to the train stations, call it superstitious but I was already antsy about it. Fighting that down (always a bad idea) I got on the train and off to USJ.
Two stations before the final destination the train was stopped. There was an announcement but since it was in Japanese I didn’t find out what happened until later. Apparently it was on the news, the train ahead of this one ended up in a collision so everything on that track was delayed for 40 minutes. I don’t know if there were any injuries as this was second hand knowledge. Just that for those 40 minutes we were packed like sardines with a baby that wasn’t having any of this nonsense and LOUDLY voicing his displeasure. That family was so embarrassed that once the train moved again they got off at the next station even though they were clearly heading to USJ as well.
Because I started the day late to my first ride the entire day was just spent playing catch-up. Thankfully the staff were lenient about it and let me through. At around noon though it started to rain and most of the outer rides were closed. That included my most anticipated ride, Mine Cart.
I actually waited a full hour hoping they’ll re-open but no dice, it rained the whole day from that point on. Most of the outdoor rides closed and horror event shows got shifted around. I thought they would cancel them out right but luckily the weather lightened up a bit around 7pm so they rushed a few shows like biohazard and Hamikuma dance party so I caught a few of them at least.
I think my favorite ride this year was the Jurassic Ride (got totally soaked though) and Harry Potters Forbidden Journey, not a total loss but was rather disappointing.
The cherry on top was that somehow on the way back I got on the wrong train and almost ended up in Wakayama! Thankfully managed to course correct but it added an hour to my transit time. Today just wasn’t my day I guess.
Tip The official USJ Website includes a list of plant based foods in the park as well as a no meat/pork list. If you have dietary restrictions make sure to check it for actual meals while you’re there. You have options!
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DAY 4 (Okayama)
Step count for the day = 16.2K steps
After USJ I planned a light day for some R&R followed by a local festival in Kyoto, the moon viewing festival in Daikaku-ji Temple to be exact. Even bought tickets for the Sagano romantic train and everything to make a day of it in Arashiyama. Unfortunately though the rain was just continuing from yesterday and Kyoto’s forecast was, for the first time, 100% rain all day! Weeeeeee….
Well, that was a bust. I forwarded my luggage to Fukuoka (one 80cm check-in bag, 3060 yen) and took it easy until noon. I had a backup plan for rainy days so I decided to activate it and got on the train to Kurashiki. To get there you have to first stop at Okayama and then get on a local train, the station attendant was nice enough to book me on a special limited run train that was cloud themed.
I mean, you read the title for this day right? You know we didn’t make it. I was feeling rather superstitious after yesterday so when the bullet train (the Nozomi 69! Yes, I’m a child!), the one famous in Japan for always being on time, was late AGAIN to where I missed my connecting train I started to get a bad feeling. Because I had the JR pass I could easily board a normal connecting train, it didn’t have to be the special one. And I totally got on the very next one… which went out of order and an announcement told everyone to sit tight. After standing there for 15 minutes I decided to take the hint and got off the train. I’m not joking, the doors literally closed behind me and it started to move. Ok, Okayama today it is.
First on the hit list, Okayama Korakuen! I can see why it’s labeled as one of Japan’s most beautiful gardens. This is the kind of place you go to get a million pictures for social and they’ll all look amazing. I will admit I did like Koko-in Garden better, Korakuen looks better in photos but Koko-in is more enjoyable. The two do create a contrast though because while Himeji has a pristine white castle the one in Okayama is jet black. Sadly it closes early so I only saw it from the outside.
Most of my day was spent walking around Okayama and I have to say, they really do love their peaches. The city had an interesting vibe to it, like that kid in middle school that saw Frozen and turned it into their whole personality for a year. That’s Okayama with the Momotaro legend, it was rather charming.
Tip Ohayo Brulee Ice cream is an Okayama based company but you can get it at most 7-11 in Japan. Don’t sleep on this one, easily the best ice cream! If you stop by Okayama however be on the lookout for special or limited flavors.
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DAY 5 (Miyajima Island)
Step count for the day = 17K steps
With my large luggage forwarded to Fukuoka I made my way to Miyajima traveling light for a change, I started to appreciate that on the train seeing others struggle with their luggage between transfers. It was still raining & rather chilly in Osaka when I left but 3 hours later it turned out the Island never got the memo. 30c and blazing HOT HOT HOT!
Sakuraya – 12/10
$40 per night, 1 night.
I’m pretty sure this was a pricing error. It was $40 for a private room with a sea view, on Miyajima Island, on a Sunday. It was a really nice room too, more like a small apartment. They even had a women-only onsen which was so nice after running around all day. I had a great time and watching the sunrise on the waters just made my day. I can’t recommend them enough.
Now, Miyajima on a weekend was probably a mistake. The queue for the ropeway was over an hour long and we got attacked by wasps… ok, so one wasp but I swear that thing sent the entire queue into a panic for a while it was so massive. Also the step count is deceptive here, while in other regions I mostly went for flat terrains Miyajima was stairs, stairs, 180 angle dirt path, even more stairs. My hip and knee were sending distress signals all day!
Ok done complaining, on to the good stuff! The Island is gorgeous, everything about it beautiful. Also the deer allowed me to pet it! Guys, I got to pet a deer! I also discovered I like oysters, that knowledge is rather dangerous on an island that specializes in them lol, so good. By the way if you ever visit, after the ropeway you have to hike about 1 km I think to get to summit of Mt. Misen. It’s literally a mountain path, not paved or anything. I made it a third of the way before deciding to turn around and just look from the observatory. It was getting rather dangerous and I didn’t want to lose my footing or something.
Daishoin temple was another interesting place to visit. While I was there they held a traditional Japanese play too. I have no idea what it’s about but the costumes were nice. One thing I found rather iffy was on the temple grounds there was an area with what looked like freshly carved tombstones. A couple (westerners) decided that was the place to make out. It felt in-appropriate but I decided it was none of my business and left.
The Café adjacent to the temple has a plant-based menu including plant based Ramen so yay – my first ramen in Japan! I was a bit unsure because it was advertised as cold ramen but good god was it GOOD!
For anyone interested in Miyajima, just know there are different ferries going to and fro from the mainland until around 10pm so it totally works as a daytrip. The island itself completely shuts down around 5pm. I booked a light up night cruise for 7pm and it was literally just me and the deer walking around the pier at that time. Totally recommend the night cruise by the way, that was amazing and worth every yen. Not too sure about the mini-monsters though.
While waiting for the cruise I saw Ron Swanson’s mustache crawl by. It took a second for my brain to comprehend that’s a bug and what looked like hair was actually legs, so, many, legs… I swear some of those caused my brain to malfunction because what even is that. AND WHY IS IT SO BIG!
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DAY 6 (Hiroshima/Hakata)
Step count for the day = 15.3K steps
I had some trouble sleeping in a futon so ended up watching the sunrise for the first time in years. I can see why people consider Miyajima to be a spiritual place, those moments of quiet are so serene. I sorta lingered that morning enjoying the atmosphere before finally saying good bye to the island and heading to Hiroshima.
I decided to indulge a little, there is a speed boat that travels from Peace Park directly to the island and back (2000 yen each way). What I didn’t know was that it was also educational, the screen explained each building and landmark’s history along the way. The A-bomb Dome and Peace Park were a bit heavy emotionally but I’m glad I visited. While walking around randomly I found myself in Hondori shopping street. I have a feeling people in Hiroshima like sweet things, either that or I just kept coming across sweet stuff all over the place. Somehow I managed to get on the wrong tram not once but twice. The city only has two lines so statistically I’m not sure how I even managed that! I finally managed to find Hiroshima station though.
I was early for my train so decided to stop by the pokemon center, the one in Hiroshima turned out to be my favorite. Almost all of the rest were out of the Halloween items but I found a few there as well as some of Hiroshima specials, it was a fun one for sure. After that I had my first Okonomiyaki! I found a place that made a pescatarian version for me. By the way two things about this particular dish in Hiroshima.
First, it’s made with noodles. You can pick Soba or Udon for your base. Second, apparently you are supposed to eat it with a spatula. Looking around me though only the men did that, all the women in the place were eating it with chopsticks. Those are really big flavors, also I knew it! People in Hiroshima had a sweet tooth, even the savory dishes were a touch sweet.
At exactly 14:08 my train arrived and I was first in line to get in. If you’re wondering why I’m mentioning this it’s because this specific train goes from Hiroshima to Hakata only once per day at this particular hour. It’s the Hello Kitty Train. This thing was super cute but more than that there was a pair of twin girls on the train going crazy over all the details. They were around 3 or 4 so they really reminded me of my little niece. I end up going nuts in the Sanrio store once I got to Hakata because of this. In fairness the kid refuses to take off that hello kitty handbag even when she sleeps (in the hello kitty PJs!), money well spent I think.
Tip In Hakata station the Tokyo Hands store is massive and stretches over five floors. It also has the largest section of umbrellas I’ve ever seen. Literally an entire floor’s worth! Sadly the pop up they had for (Apothecary diaries) was picked clean by the time I visited.
Thank you for reading so far. After resting in Hakata for the day I continue my (mis)adventures in Kyushu and Tokyo for the second week of the trip. I figured this was a good point to break the report as from this point things actually get a bit… chaotic. Yes, this so far was mostly planed and orderly, it’s about to go off the rails after this believe it or not!
by Kidlike101