Itinerary sense check – three-week family trip with four-year old and baby

We are travelling to Japan in March 2026 for three weeks with our family, including a four-year old and a baby. I have extensively planned our itinerary which is set out below. I would be grateful for any thoughts and in particular for any recommendations for restaurants or activities that would be enjoyable for a four-year old and a baby!

As you can tell from the itinerary the trip is focused on experiencing culture, history and authentic food. We are not into theme parks especially considering the children’s ages. The children also don’t watch screens and so aren’t bothered about any specific characters or brands. We are also not that concerned about seeing the “top” sights especially if they are likely to be overly crowded or logistically difficult.

TOKYO (Akasaka) — 4 nights

Hotel: Mimaru Tokyo Akasaka

Day 1 — Arrival

• Haneda arrival in the evening

• Simple dinner near hotel

Day 2 — Akasaka and nearby

• Neighbourhood walk, parks. Potentially Nezu museum if energy allows

• Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience - either tasting or just a cup of tea and wagashi

• Walk-in dinner

Day 3 — Shibuya, Harajuku

• Private guided day (Shibuya, Harajuku, Daikanyama), Shibuya Sky visit

• Dinner: Sushi Himitsu 

Day 4 — TeamLab & Asakusa

• TeamLab Planets

• Waterbus to Asakusa

• Senso-ji, relaxed Asakusa stroll, park time in the afternoon before the Asakusa Sumo Club

• Asakusa Sumo Club 

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KANAZAWA — 3 nights

Hotel: Machi no Odoriba

Day 5 — Travel + Old Town

• Shinkansen Tokyo → Kanazawa

• Higashi Chaya geisha district

• Shima Geisha House

• River walk

• Dinner: Kourin Sushi or another sushi restaurant near the ryokan 

Day 6 — Daughter’s birthday

• Kimono rental 

• Kenrokuen Garden + Kanazawa Castle

• Chocolate stop, playground in the afternoon

• Dinner: Italian restaurant

Day 7 — Samurai & Crafts

• Nagamachi Samurai District

• Terashima Kurando Samurai House

• Omicho Market lunch

• Craft or children’s centre

• Dinner: MAKINONCÎ

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KYOTO — 4 nights

Hotels:

• 2 nights Tawaraya Ryokan

• 2 nights Kyoto city hotel

Day 8 — Travel + Temple Walk

• Train Kanazawa → Kyoto

• Quick arrival walk in Higashiyama, park or playground time after the train. After check-in either relax in the ryokan or further exploration 

• Dinner: Tawaraya

Day 9 — Culture & Theatre

• Private tour in Higashiyama

• GEAR Theatre (toddler and one adult only, other adult to rest in ryokan with baby or do further sightseeing if preferred)

• Dinner: Tawaraya 

Day 10 — Gardens, Tea & Gion

• Kinkaku-ji and/or Daitoku-ji, northern Kyoto exploring if energy allows

• Tea ceremony and calligraphy at Nishiki Orizuruya

• Gion Corner 

• Dinner: Gion shabu-shabu (walk-in) or simple takeaway/konbini meal depending on energy levels 

Day 11 — Arashiyama

• Arashiyama walk starting from Otagi Nenbutsu-ji

• Private boat tour with shamisen

• Dinner: Kushi Tanaka 

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KINOSAKI ONSEN — 2 nights

Hotel: Nishimuraya Shogetsutei

• Visit Himeji on the way from Kyoto to Kinosaki Onsen

• Relaxation and onsen

• Ryokan kaiseki dinners (both nights)

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OSAKA — 3 nights

Hotel: Osaka Ukiyoe Ryokan

Day 14 — Arrival + Aquarium

• Travel from Kinosaki

• Kaiyukan Aquarium (alternatively can be done Day 15 or Day 16, but an activity after the train will be good to burn energy for the four-year old), taiko drumming show nearby

• Dinner: Izakaya The New World

Day 15 — Food & Culture Walk

• Kuromon Market → Dotonbori → arcades

• Ukiyo-e woodblock workshop 

• Dinner: Kirameki

Day 16 — Open day, potentially sumo basho

• Open Osaka day, potentially exploring Osaka or day trip to Nara or Uji

• Osaka Grand Sumo Basho in the late afternoon if we can get tickets 

• Dinner: Teppanyaki Okonomiyaki Oribe

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HAKONE — 2 nights

Hotel: Gora Hanaougi

• Private onsen, Hakone Open Air Museum, consider other sightseeing if energy levels allow

• Ryokan kaiseki dinners (both nights) 

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TOKYO (Shibuya) — 3 nights

Accommodation: apartment near Shibuya

Day 19 — Arrival

• Hakone → Tokyo, neighbourhood walk and exploration 

• Dinner: T Nakameguro Wagyu Steak 

Day 20 — Museums

• Tokyo National Museum

• Ueno Park

• Casual izakaya dinner

Day 21 — Design & Farewell

• Open day, potentially Roppongi Art Triangle or shopping / further exploration in Daikanyama and/or Ebisu

• Farewell dinner: CENSU