Itinerary: Tokyo-Koyasan-Kyoto-Kanazawa – help me show my fiance the best of Japan

My fiance and I are planning our honeymoon in Japan, most likely in mid to late October. My fiance has never been to Japan, whereas I went once 20 years ago, so trying to balance seeing the major things while also fitting in some new sights that aren't on the classic Japan trip route. I would love some feedback on the contours of the trip. Does the sequencing make sense? Are we spending too much or too little time anywhere? Are we missing any obviously awesome things in any of these places?

Trip desires:

Non-negotiables:

-Hiroshima (partner's one big ask)
-Koya-san (I went as a teen and it was magical and I am committed to going back)
-Stay at a NICE onsen ryokan (I fit in Kaga/Yamanaka but am not sure if this is the best choice. Hakone just doesn't seem to fit as well.

What we like:

Exploring places and getting the "feel" of a city, good food, cultural sites but not museums unless there's something truly iconic. Our fave thing is to get lost in a city somewhere off the beaten path. We also prefer to pace ourselves and not to plan frenetic days of seeing 30 things. We are from NYC so don't need to over-emphasize the big city aspects of Japan other than what makes Tokyo unique as a big city.

Also, I really like hand-made ceramics and am a potter myself. My partner is really interested in contemporary history, hence Hiroshima.

Hub 1, Tokyo

Day 1: Morning recovery from flight → Shibuya crossing → wander around Nakameguro + Daikanyama → Shibuya Sky at night.

Day 2: Meiji Shrine → Harajuku/Omotesando (lunch here) → Shimokitazawa for thrifting and exploring → Rooftop bar in Shinjuku.

Day 3: Explore Monzen-Nakacho → Ginza + Okuino Building → TeamLAB

Day 4: Day trip to Kamakura: Explore around, check out Hase-dera, Kotoku-in, walk down the beach

Day 5: Yanaka → Ueno → evening Golden Gai + Omoide Yokocho

Hub 2, Koya-san

Day 6: (Send luggage ahead to Kyoto) Travel to Koya-san → late lunch → Check out Okunoin cemetery daytime→ Stay at temple

Day 7: Temple breakfast and meditation → Explore Koya-san → Danjo Garan Temple → Nighttime Okunoin tour

Hub 3, Kyoto

Day 8: Gran Tenku Sightseeing train to Kyoto by way of Osaka @ 10am → Arrive in Kyoto around 1 pm, check in + refresh → Nijo Castle → Explore central Kyoto walking toward Pontocho → Pontocho Alley for dinner

Day 9: Fushimi Inari → Kiyumizu-dera → Walk around Sannenzaka + Ninnenzaka (lunch) → rest break → Explore Gion if we have energy → Kiyamachi-dori for dinner

Day 10: Daitoku-ji early morning → Arashiyama + Tenryu-ji → Lunch + rest break → Dinner & walk around Gion

Day 11: Day trip to Himeji Castle (new to me) →return to Kyoto, rest + refresh + lunch → Fushimi sake district

Day 12: Day trip to Hiroshima (Maybe fit in Miyajima Island? This feels like a lot.)

Day 13: Day trip to Nara park → return to Kyoto, rest + refresh + lunch → Philosopher's Path + (Nanzen-ji maybe?) → dinner

Hub 4, Kaga/Yamanaka & Kanazawa

Day 14: Train to Kaga/Yamanaka Onsen → spend the day soaking & relaxing at a ryokan

Day 15: Early morning train to Kanazawa → check in + refresh → Higashi Chaya District (check out Kutani-yaki pottery)

Day 16: Ninjadera → Kenroku-en → Explore

Day 17: Return to Tokyo, fly home.

Some specific questions:

  1. Is Kaga/Yamanaka a good way to fit in a nice onsen ryokan experience?
  2. Are the Kyoto days too packed? I'm worried we're trying to do too much. Day 10 and Day 8 feel especially packed.
  3. What are other things we can do in Kyoto to experience the city itself rather than the shrines and cultural sites? I'm talking cute shops, cafes, little alleys.
  4. Is there any place where we can shorten the trip? I've already cut it back by one, but looking for other opportunities to cut without making the pace frenetic. I'd prefer not to shorten Kanazawa to a day trip because I don't want the last few days to feel crazed.
  5. Is there anywhere we are spending too much or too little time?
  6. Is there anyone obviously amazing that we are missing on our route?

by Normal_Soup_5402