Three weeks in Japan – overview and thoughts

Hi all,

My partner and I have just spent three weeks in Japan as first timers (August 9 to September 2) and it was everything I’d hoped it would be and more. Here is an overview –

We landed in Tokyo and immediately made our way to the Fujinomiya area as we had plans to climb Mount Fuji on the 11th August via the Subashiri trial. Sadly we had to alter our plans as a typhoon came in and it would have just been a dangerous (or at the very least, a very miserable) climb. We had to book a hotel on the hop back in Tokyo but we found one for a very reasonable £155 for two nights. We then did the Shinjuku/Shibuya area and a walking tour which I’d defo recommend: https://www.airbnb.co.uk/experiences/1162458?viralityEntryPoint=2&s=76

The host gave us some great restaurant recommendations too.

We hit Osaka from August 13 and spent two days at this hotel: https://www.candeohotels.com/en/osaka-tower/.

It was probably my favourite hotel on the whole trip. The rooftop onsen was beautiful and if you go late, chances are you’ll have it all to yourself. Osaka was definitely one of my favourite stops as I loved the Dotonburi area. Lunch at Tempozan market place was a good shout too, some lovely okonomiyaki!

We went to Nara for the day on August 15 and got to see the Festival of lights at Todaji temple in the evening which was very special.

Then we travelled to Kyoto where we stayed for three nights at this Airbnb: https://www.airbnb.com/l/dOgObyiq

The host was lovely and the place was super clean and accommodating. Nishiki market was a great place to explore and try some food. Wasn’t massively impressed with Pontocho alley but maybe that’s because it was raining at the time! We hiked the Fushimi Inari Shrine at sunset on one of the days which was amazing. The further up you go, the less people there are, so don’t worry about taking photos until you get further up in my opinion! We also did the Arashayama bamboo grove which to be honest I felt was a bit underwhelming as it’s just so full of people.

We then did a day trip to Himeji before heading to Hiroshima. I found Himeji a bit of a letdown if I’m being honest. The outside is far more impressive than the inside.

Hiroshima itself was a cool place. If you want a nice burger/nice bar, head to The Smith: https://www.instagram.com/the_smith_lab?igsh=YnljYXMxc3Vta2Ni

The Peace Memorial Park was an impressive/sombre place. We spent two days in Miyajima as well. The view at the top of Mount Misen was amazing (if you have your hiking boots) and we also kayaked around the back with the Miyajima Kayak company. Would recommend them! https://miyajima-kayak.jp/en/

We then took a flight to Ishigaki – what a beautiful beautiful place. If you can go, I’d recommend staying at MEGURU – https://meguru-hotel.com.

It was clean, welcoming and the staff were amazing. It had real wellness-retreat vibes! During our stay in Ishigaki we hired mopeds on one day which was fun and just explored all the different beaches. Also did a day-trip to Taketomi which was a lovely place (and got very sunburnt!).

After a week, we flew back to Tokyo where we did the Asakusa area on one day which was cool. If you’re looking for a capsule hotel recommendation, I couldn’t recommend these guys more: https://www.booking.com/hotel/jp/resol-poshteldong-jing-qian-cao.en-gb.html

We then managed to find some good weather to do Mount Fuji – hiking up the Subashiri trail and staying the night at the 8th station’s Tomoekan hut – https://tomoekan.com/plan/english/

Nice place, warm, and good food! We then watched the sunrise the next day at 5am before hiking to the top and then descending.

The next day, we were back on the plane home to the UK.

Some thoughts –

• The only bad meal I had the entire time I was in Japan was (ironically) the most expensive one! It was at Ginza Kojyu, a two Michelin starred restaurant in Tokyo. Actually have no idea how they have these stars as the food was so immemorable and the experience was just a bit bizarre.
• August is a killer weather-wise. It’s so hot and humid and you were literally sweating five mins after going outside. I couldn’t change this as that’s when my partner is able to go away for extended periods due to his job but if you have more flexibility than me, defo go in more manageable conditions!
• I’d be more flexible with planning the Mount Fuji climb if I were to do it again. Would perhaps have a couple days in mind and see how the weather is looking before travelling to Fujinomiya.
• I’d take less toiletries. Every hotel we stayed in had toothbrushes, shower gels, pyjamas, creams, razors, etc, so we could have packed lighter.
• A Suica card is essential!
• Tabelog is a great website to see what decent restaurants are in your immediate area.
• Aquarius and Pocari Sweat are godsend drinks on hot, humid days! There is always a vending machine to get one from.

Would be more than happy to answer any questions!