I just thought I’d would do a trip report that’s probably a little skewed towards an older crowd. We (2 couples in 60’s/early 70’s) just completed a 2 week trip to Japan
But first, I wanted to thank all of you Redditors that have contributed to this board. I’ve been following for almost a year and it’s been an invaluable source of information. Itineraries. Suggestions. Trip reports. Comments. Tips. You are kind and amazing in sharing your knowledge. Thank you.
We did a customized version of the Golden Loop. Tokyo (4 nights). Hakone (2 nights). Kyoto (4 nights). A Hiroshima stop and then Miyajima Island (2 nights) and back to Tokyo. And at each place we said “I wish we had a little more time here “!
You don’t need me to tell you about the shrines and restaurants or the top tourist hotspots. Plenty has been posted here before. Yes, some places were super crowded. Some places were crazy. But we loved (almost) every minute.
We started with a private guide at each location (not too expensive with 2 couples), and got an overview of each area. Then we were on our own. The train system was incredible and Google Maps invaluable.
Tokyo – Upon arriving we stayed at the Park Hotel Tokyo. Very nice hotel, not far from the Ginza, but in a quieter area.Our base for 4 days in Tokyo with easy access to train system. Senso-ji Temple was cool but packed and I wish we spent more time in Asakusa. Sunset from Skytree with a view of Fuji was beautiful, but really crowded. We did some experiences through Airbnb that were fun.
Note: When we returned to Tokyo we were at the Hotel Groove in Shinjuku. Totally different vibe, but still fun. Shinjuku was crazy. The 3D cat billboard was amazing. Don Quijote was a zoo. Did the Shibuya Scramble. Nice view from above with a drink at Mag8 rooftop lounge. Check out Dan's Jackets on the way up.
Hakone – Had a great stay at the Setsugetsuka Ryokan, just around the corner from the ropeway station. Great Kaiseki meal included and the rooms have a private, open air bath. The Ropeway was nice– we got there early and got right on. Fuji was hiding all day, but the pirate boat across Lake Ashi was nice. The Open Air Museum in Hakone was beautiful and peaceful. We used the Hakone free Pass to get around.
Kyoto – the Bullet train to Kyoto was fast and easy. Our luggage was forwarded from Tokyo without a hitch (about $33 for 2 large suitcases). A quick local train brought us to the Cross Hotel – a great location and a very nice hotel. Kyoto was crazy, crowded and a lot of fun. Food options everywhere. Nishiki market was packed. Did a formal tea ceremony at Maikoya. Went to Fushimi Inari (an easy train ride). The road leading to the gate had some interesting vendors. Saw these awesome large fox mask cookies that were unique. The following day we went to Arashiyama and the Bamboo Forest. 4 days in total there with some other shrines and great little restaurants. I could have added a few more days.
Hiroshima/Miyajima – on the Shinkansen again to a guided tour of Hiroshima. We did not want to leave Japan without seeing the history there. Somber, but groups of schoolchildren coming and singing in the park. The crowd in the Peace Museum was the worst. Shoulder to shoulder the whole way through.
A ferry to Miyajima island brought us to the highlight of our trip. The Grand Hotel Arimoto was located just off the main drag, but a world away. Our rooms had a private open air bath in a garden setting. Hotel staff were awesome. kaiseki meals in a private room with our own hostess for 2 nights (don't ask me, I don't know how that happened). A five minute walk out the back door brought us to the Tori Gate. Spectacular at night and peaceful after the day visitors were gone. A memory we all fondly cherished.
Some suggestions:
- You've heard it before – don’t overplan. For example, in Shinjuku we stopped to hear a Japanese Dixieland Band playing on the street in Tokyo. They were fun and friendly and amazing. And if we were rushing to the next spot on the itinerary we would have missed it.
- Google Maps is a must. It will get you through the train system and the stations. Usually. 😉
- Tokyo is huge. Look at a map when planning your day.
- Sometimes a cab ride beats 2 trains and a 10 minute walk when you’re tired. Taxis were cheap.
- If you see something that you really like, just buy it. You might not get a second chance. Support the local economy!
- Translate apps will help. A lot. They are not perfect, but usually I could speak/ type my question in English and have someone read it in Japanese. Keep it short and practice before you go!
- Food from Lawsons and 7-11 really is good. Try the egg salad!
- Take your time. I’ll never forget our walk at night around Miyajima Island after the day trippers left. It's a special place at night and it was unforgettable.
- I waited 50 years to see Mt. Fuji. She was shy while we were in Hakone, but spectacular when viewed from the Shinkansen to Kyoto. Book right side seats heading west.
- Elevators and escalators in train stations are common, but not everywhere.
- Casual, dark clothes were fine. Don’t overpack. We loved luggage forwarding!
- Book a ryokan and soak in an onsen. Eat your meals in a kimono.
- Street food is cheap and plentiful. Some places just close when they run out of food. Eat lunch early to beat the crowd. And make dinner reservations at least a day or two in advance.
- Try your Japanese! Even if it’s just “Arigato”.
- Our meals were terrific. And tell the cook “oichi des ka”. It brought a smile, laughs and multiple bows. It was awesome. (I don’t think they were laughing at me!).
- Get off the beaten path. Watching the end of the World Series in a tiny sidestreet Okonomiyaki spot with a bunch of locals with grandma cooking next to us was unforgettable. Note: Ohtani is a god there.
A final note:
And what I’m really grateful for were the awesome Japanese people we met along the way.
From our tour guides, to the hotel staff to the train station workers who pointed us in the right direction. The french restaurant owner on some random sidestreet in Kyoto who kindly moved other people in the middle of their meal to make room for us. The other diners were friendly and kind. And the chef's beef bourguignon was awesome.
The elderly (older than me!) couple sharing their home (and top shelf whiskey) in a kimono experience. The samurai master showing us the prize in his sword collection (owned by a shogun) and teaching us form. Our gentle and gracious hostess at a tea pouring ceremony. The kindly old waitress in the ryokan taking such good care of us for 3 days, communicating with me through Apple Translate and correcting/laughing at my kaiseki etiquette. I know you loved me and I loved you too…
Thanks again to all you contributors. May you all experience Japan and see Mt. Fuji.
It was all amazing
by Top_Novel_5934
8 comments
Wow, am a 24m and this was such a beautiful read. You painted Japan with so much heart and detail it felt like I was walking those streets with you. The part about Miyajima at night and the kindness of the locals really hit me. That’s the kind of travel that stays with you forever.
Thanks for the report. I agree that it’s great to take your time. You should have probably said ‘oishii desu’ to the chef. You pretty much asked them ‘Is it good?’ 😀
That is a really sweet report, thanks!
Just wanted to point out something funny. You said:
> tell the cook “oichi des ka”
The “ka” particle at the end is actually for question, so basically you were asking if the food was good to the cook :D.
Nonetheless, I think people understood what you meant, especially given the context if you said that when leaving and, as was my experience, it is always appreciated by the staff!
Ohh I love this! Reading as we are on our flight to Tokyo (our first visit!). We are young Boomers with a similar itinerary. Thank you for the info!
As a younger person, I love to hear your thoughts! What a wonderful excursion it sounds like you’ve enjoyed!
I’m glad you had the best time!
‘Oishii desu ka’ is a question, you’re asking the chef if it’s delicious. If you want to say that the food was delicious you say ‘Oishii desu’
Great report. Glad you made it to Miyajima, a magical place. (I have a cat now named “Miya.”) Our experience in Hiroshima was totally different — a Sunday morning, no school kids, solemnly empty. We had a little conversation in the park with a man walking his dog and he was so happy that we tried to speak Japanese, even though it was pretty mangled. Trying is everything.
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