Wanted to post this as this sub was a huge help in planning my trip/getting my bearings around various logistics. Will happily reply to this post to pay it forward.
Context: I’m a 24 year old guy from the US, I spontaneously had 2 weeks off of work and wanted to make the most of it. Found a cheap flight, planned an ~8 day solo trip to Tokyo and Kyoto, with a stopover in the alps – Takayama (Dec 8-17).
Highs:
– Spending a night in Takayama. So peaceful, and had the best listening bar experience here. I was the only one on the Higashiyama walking trail through various temples and the woods, and the food was sublime, especially on a snowy day.
– Biking to Arashiyama and having lunch at a newly-opened tempura omakase (below). Best meal I had in the country.
– Favorite temples: Meiji Jingu in Tokyo, Eikan-do in Kyoto, Todai-ji in Nara.
Observations:
– The specialty coffee scene and the vinyl bars are out of this world, especially for solo travelers. Having a pour-over cup of coffee from a master in the morning or drinking whiskey while listening to jazz selected by a DJ at a listening bar were undoubtedly my favorite moments on the trip, and gave me such lovely time for introspection as well as time to meet servers and other patrons.
– As a solo traveler, I never needed to make reservations and had amazing meals, even at ‘reservation only’ places. Wherever you are, google maps whatever you are looking for, sift through some reviews and just pick. Any place with good reviews ended up being excellent for me.
– I always had long conversations with the bartenders (sometimes via Google Translate) or other patrons, which led to many laughs and heartfelt experiences. The service is truly unbelievable and masters are excited to get to know your story and will be happy to share theirs.
Pre-trip preparation/research:
I did a lot of research before my trip and wanted to have a pulse on the history and modern culture before arriving. Instagram recommendations are helpful to an extent, but I would highly advise against taking recommendations on Instagram, as any spot that gains popularity will be mobbed with uninteresting people (kind of being sarcastic, but cool go to to spots where locals want to chat instead of people vlogging). My biggest recommendations:
- Books:
- Rice, Noodle Fish to get a basic understanding of Japanese food and the concepts applied in Japanese cooking, as well as an understanding of which foods are unique to specific regions.
- The Way of Tea to get an understanding of religion and culture, a must-read if going to Kyoto
- Zen Mind, Beginners Mind as a guide to Buddhism, also a great tool for mindful travel
- In Praise of Shadows for a meditation on lightness and darkness in Japan, gave me a better understanding of Japanese architecture and design
- Haruki Murakami plugging because reading his books made me so much more interested in Japanese culture and Tokyo’s fantastical vibe, my favorite is Kafka on the Shore. I think South of the Border West of the Sun or After Dark would be a good pre-Tokyo read. His most famous is Norwegian Wood.
- Podcast:
- Sightseeing Japan is Japan 101 on hundreds of different topics. I listened to these episodes while in transit to major sites… the episodes on Meiji Temple, Nara, Senso-ji, Kyoto and Fushimi Inari were incredibly informative and gave me so much context that I wouldn’t have gotten on any signs/sightseeing guides.
- Abroad in Japan had a few episodes that were interesting as well
- “Why Japan’s Population is Shrinking So Quickly” podcast episode was a 10min informative listen
- “Japan’s Evaporated People” episode from a conspiracy podcast but is very eerie and fascinating
Itinerary: I was mainly looking to relax (which you may not believe as my itinerary may read as very busy), so I chose one thing to do in the morning and one thing to do in the evening. I structured my days as follows: 1) coffee from a specialty roaster or mom/pop run spot > AM activity 2) filling Japanese lunch (and potentially coffee 2) > 3) PM activity > 4) listening bar. There are so many great coffee spots and I also drank probably 2-4 cups a day so I won’t list them all here !
Day 1: Arrive in Tokyo late. Late night ramen at Ichiran Shibuya.
Day 2 – Murakami and Meiji: Went for a run in Yoyogi park, and then took the subway to Waseda University to go to the Haruki Murakami Library. As a huge Murakami fan, it was unbelievable and exceeded expectations. If you’re thinking of going, I wouldn’t do any research/look at any pictures, just go. Grabbed sushi in Shinjuku at Uogashi Nihon-Ichi, a standing sushi bar that was delicious and affordable. I walked to Meiji Jingu and relaxed in the park for a while, it was unbelievably peaceful and the temple felt effortlessly integrated into the park. I then walked through Cat Street (way cooler than I was expecting) to go shopping in Shibuya to get prescription sunglasses at JINS and some basics at GU. Dinner in Nonbei Yokocho with friend from hostel.
Day 3 – Hanging Daikanyama and Nakameguro: Fighting jet lag, went to Tsukiji fish market and ate grilled miso scallops, tuna sushi, and a wagyu skewer – touristy but cool experience and really sensory experience (especially for breakfast). Explored Daikanyama and Nakameguro. I went to Isshin Daikanyama and it was one of the most delicious meals on the trip in a serene tatami-mat setting. I walked around the streets of Daikanyama and cafe-hopped to Nakameguro, where I grabbed a matcha at Epulor listening bar. Rested at the hotel for a bit, and then ate katsu at Butagumi, which was unbelievable and in a cute house.
Day 4- Asakusa and Kappabashi Christmas shopping: Coffee at TABI TO was arguably my favorite coffee on the trip, 3 single origin coffee tasting. I met these girls there and we walked around Asakusa towards Senso-ji, it was so fun pulling out fortunes and a really serene area around the temple. Matcha at Hatoya Asakusa was my favorite on the trip. Ate an udon beef bowl at a local spot and walked to Kappabashi for Christmas shopping, which was affordable and interesting. Purchased a knife at Washin-do. Grabbed a quick sushi dinner and then had a few cocktails at SG Club with a friend, which had truly amazing and creative cocktails.
Day 5- To Takayama: Stunning bus ride that got progressively snowy from Tokyo to Takayama, with 3 stops at scenic rest areas with delicious snacks. I checked in at Temple Otera Stay Zenkoji, which is a peaceful temple that also allows for stays (not necessarily a shukubo, but as religious as you want it to be). Unbelievable room overlooking a peaceful courtyard, my favorite stay of the trip. Got a pick-me-up coffee at Pickin’, one of my favorite cafes on the trip, I think it was American movie/music themed? But cute owner and very alps/homey vibe. Explored Takayama Jinya museum, which was incredible (although my toes were freezing since you can’t wear shoes and it was snowing…wear warm socks). Only tourist there and they were so welcoming and chatty. Had mouthwatering sushi, soup and beef skewers at Hida Beef Baya. Spent a few hours walking around the preserved Historical Neighborhood, so many cool little shops to explore and almost no other people. Took a bath, grabbed omakase at a local spot, and grabbed a drink at Aru Hikari, a listening bar that was hands down my favorite bar in Japan. Sipping on Japanese whiskey, listening to jazz with a Japanese couple as it snows outside.
Day 6 – Takayama to Kyoto: I woke up early and perused the Morning Market and then did the Higashiyama Walking Course, which was absolutely delightful and a highlight of the trip. Didn’t see a soul the whole time I was there, received several goshuin. Worth noting that at the last 5 minutes of my hike I saw a sign in Japanese with a picture of a bear and apparently there had been a sharp increase in bear sightings recently… the less I know the better I guess! Worth bringing a bell with you as a precaution. Lunch at Suzuya, delicious Hida Beef BBQ. Grabbed a coffee and boarded the train to Kyoto.
Day 7 – Slow day in Kyoto: I took the bus to the Philosopher’s Path and went to AOIDOS for a coffee. The owner had such an inspiring and heartwarming story, I urge you to go and meet him. Went to all of the Temples on the path, my favorite was Eikan-do, especially with the fall foliage. Lunch at Omen Udon, the tempura and spices In the broth were so delicious. Walked to Yamatoya, a jazz listening bar with a good coffee and a silent respite from all the walking. Walked along the river at sunset to multiple listening bars in Pontocho Alley, including J-House and Ginza Music Bar, both of which I would recommend, though Ginza is more listening-forward.
Day 8 – Nara and Inari: Took the local train to Nara listening to a podcast about Nara’s political and religious relevance, which made visiting Todai-ji and Kofuku-ji and bowing to deer even better. I’m a deer lover, so this was a precious experience and I felt like a kid. They’re beautiful animals, these ones were either completely indifferent to you or aggressively in pursuit of cookies, nibbling at my sweater I just bought at GU haha. Fun fact up until the 1600’s klling one of these ‘sacred deer’ was punishable by death. Took the train to Fushimi Inari and hiked to the top of Mt. Inari, which is a must for anyone down to put in some leg work. Stunning view and uncrowded. Dinner at Suzume (recommended by this reddit page), where the food was great, but drinking with a ton of Japanese guys talking through translate was even better. Great Izakaya, pretty casual. Nightcap at Mitch Mitchell, a quieter listening bar right off the alley with a sweet bartender.
Day 9 – Biking to Arashiyama: Sorry not sorry the New Yorker was craving a bagel… found Dining 603 and had a walnut miso bagel with cream cheese and a coffee. Hit the spot. Rented a bike from J-Cycle (1600yen for all day bike rental) and biked to Arashiyama to see Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, all the little figures made me smile and they have an interesting history to them. I had lunch at Tempura Hashimoto, which was undoubtedly my favorite meal on the trip. Newly opened restaurant by a husband and wife. The husband left a famous tempura restaurant after 11 years and the wife is training to be a tea master. Sake, 8-course tempura, sashimi, tempura rice bowl, and dessert. Still thinking about this. Biked back downtown and went to Sannenzaka around sunset… the temple was pretty but it was the most touristy and crowded place I had been in my whole trip. Maybe worth it for the architecture, but all of the loud tourists/unpatrolled kids running around left a bad taste in my mouth. Had a 5-course omakase at Fujitate which was unbelievable as well.. definitely my best food day. Nightcap at PM Sounds, very American but my favorite listening bar in Kyoto, the sound system is second to none and the patrons are entirely engaged to the listening experience.
by Sure_Concert_5464