11 days Osaka/Kyoto solo – Mobile Suica, foot blisters, and figuring it out

Got back to Seattle three days ago from what was supposed to be my perfectly planned 11 day trip to Osaka and Kyoto. I'm 31, work from home doing software stuff, and this was my first time traveling alone anywhere outside North America. Spent probably six months reading this subreddit, watching YouTube videos, making spreadsheets. I had train times written down, restaurant reservations, a color coded Google map. The whole thing.

Day one completely fell apart within two hours of landing.

Touched down at Kansai around 8. Immigration was fast, bags came out quick, I was feeling good. Walked over to the JR ticket office to get an ICOCA card because literally every resource I found said you need one immediately. The line was maybe 25 or 30 people but moving okay. Waited about 25 minutes, got to the counter, and the guy told me they were sold out. Completely out of cards. He didn't know when more were coming in.

I just stood there holding my backpack straps while he repeated it slower. Asked about the machines and he said those were empty too. Suggested I try again tomorrow or check Osaka stations. Then he gestured for me to move because there were people behind me.

Walked over to some chairs near the Family Mart and sat down. My phone was under 50 percent and I'd forgotten to download offline maps. My hotel was Hearton Hotel Nishi Umeda in Namba, around 9,000 yen per night through Booking.com. I had dinner plans at Kani Doraku in Dotonbori at 7pm that I'd booked a month ago. The restaurant only took reservations through their website and I'd gotten excited about it because I never eat at restaurants alone back home.

I knew I could buy individual tickets but the fare maps looked like circuit diagrams and I was already tired and my phone battery was dropping. Ended up just getting on the airport limousine bus to Namba for 1,600 yen. My budget spreadsheet said take the Nankai train for 920 yen but I didn't care anymore. 【The Nankai Airport Express is definitely better if you have time. Takes 40 mins vs 50+ for the bus and it's cheaper. I just panicked.】

The bus took almost an hour. Tried to google solutions but the airport wifi cut out once we started moving. Just sat there watching Osaka appear outside and my feet were starting to hurt. I'd been wearing the same shoes since leaving Seattle and my feet were swelling. Probably should have changed into something looser on the plane. Got to the hotel around 11, checked in, went up to the room and immediately back down to ask the front desk about IC cards. The woman was nice but basically confirmed everything. Shortage, been going on for weeks, no timeline. She showed me how to read the ticket machines and I nodded like I understood but I definitely didn't.

Dropped my bag in the room and walked to Namba station. The station was huge and crowded and warm and smelled like a combination of coffee and something sweet I couldn't identify. The ticket office had another line. Waited maybe 20 minutes. Same answer. No cards available. 【I later learned Namba, Umeda, and Shin-Osaka stations were all experiencing the same shortage. Smaller stations like Tennoji apparently still had some stock but nobody told me that.】 I sat on a bench outside the station and just watched people for a while.

Everyone tapping cards or phones at the gates, moving through without breaking stride. My feet were already starting to hurt from all the standing and walking. It was also way hotter than I expected for late October.

Then I remembered something about mobile Suica from this subreddit but I'd skipped over it because I thought you needed a Japanese bank account. Opened Apple Wallet, tapped the plus sign, selected Transit Card, chose Suica, and it let me charge it with my regular US Visa. Put 5,000 yen on it and went back to test it at the gates. 【This works with iPhone 8 or newer and Apple Pay enabled. Takes literally 3 minutes. Android has some workaround but I don't know the details.】

Tapped my phone and the gate opened. Didn't even go through, just stood there for a second. Then my phone buzzed with a low battery warning. Under 20 percent. Great.

Walked back to the hotel and spent the afternoon in my room charging my phone and reorganizing my plans. Downloaded offline maps, some translation apps like Google Translate and Papago, a few transit apps people mentioned on Reddit, and some local guide apps like Tabelog and PawPaw. Just downloaded everything I could think of while I had power and wifi. Also took a nap because the jet lag was hitting. Made it to dinner that night. Kani Doraku was touristy but the crab was genuinely incredible. I got the kaiseki course, around 5,500 yen, and it was worth it. Eight courses, all crab prepared different ways. I was the only person eating alone in the whole restaurant but the staff were really professional about it. 【Book at least 2-3 weeks ahead for the Dotonbori location. They have other locations that are less busy.】

Walked back through Dotonbori around 9 and it was overwhelming. Lights everywhere, crowds, the smell of grilled meat and takoyaki. Stopped at Family Mart and bought random snacks to try, spent maybe 800 yen on stuff I mostly didn't like. Got back to the room and ate convenience store food while looking at my itinerary for tomorrow.

That's when I realized I'd somehow planned an entire day of backtracking across Osaka. Osaka Castle in the east, then Shinsekai in the south, then Umeda in the north. Spent an hour moving things around. My feet hurt and I was exhausted but at least I'd survived day one.

Fell asleep around midnight and woke up at 3am completely wide awake. Jet lag. Laid there for two hours trying to fall back asleep, gave up around 5am and just started my day early.

【Day 1 spending: around 17,000 yen including hotel】

Day 2: Osaka Castle, Shinsekai, Kuromon Market

Went to Osaka Castle around 8am since I was up anyway. Barely anyone there yet which was nice. The castle looks amazing from outside but inside it's basically a modern museum with elevators. Entry was 600 yen. The view from the top floor was good but I spent maybe 45 minutes total instead of the two hours I'd planned. 【The exterior and grounds are free and honestly that's the best part. If you're short on time you can skip the interior.】

Took the Tanimachi Line to Dobutsuen-mae for Shinsekai. Older neighborhood, less tourists, lots of kushikatsu places. Picked one called Daruma because it was busy with locals. You sit at the counter and order skewers one at a time. The woman next to me was eating alone too and we did that awkward acknowledgment nod.

Ordered way too much food because I kept pointing at things without knowing what they were. Ended up with maybe 15 skewers plus beer, around 2,400 yen total. The kushikatsu was amazing, super crispy and you dip it in this communal sauce. There are signs everywhere about not double dipping. 【Daruma has multiple locations but the Shinsekai one has the best atmosphere. Expect to spend 1,500-2,500 yen per person.】

Tried to go to Kuromon Market after but I was so full I could barely walk. Went anyway and just looked around. Definitely touristy. Bought some strawberries because they looked perfect. Three strawberries. 800 yen. They were good but probably not 800 yen good. Should have just looked. My feet were getting worse. Blisters forming on both heels from all the walking. Stopped at Matsumoto Kiyoshi and bought blister bandages and some foot powder, around 650 yen total. That helped a little but not much.

The jet lag hit hard around 2pm. I was walking through Namba and suddenly felt like I could fall asleep standing up. Went back to the hotel and crashed for three hours. Woke up around 5 feeling disoriented and annoyed at myself for wasting the afternoon.

【Day 2 total: around 13,000 yen】

Day 3: Kyoto – Fushimi Inari

Took the JR line from Namba to Kyoto Station, around 560 yen and 45 minutes, then transferred to the Nara Line to Inari Station. Mobile Suica made this so easy, just tap in and out. 【The JR route is better than Keihan because it's direct from Kyoto Station. Keihan requires a transfer at Tofukuji.】

Got to Fushimi Inari around 10 and it was already crowded at the bottom. Started the hike up. Everyone says the crowds thin out after the first section and that's completely true. Once you get past the main viewing area maybe a third of the way up, it's almost quiet.

The hike took me close to two hours with photo stops. Not difficult but it's all stairs and it was humid and my shirt was soaked through by the halfway point. My feet were killing me even with the bandages. There were vending machines at a few spots which felt like a miracle. 【Bring water. The vending machines exist but they're spaced out and sometimes empty. Also bring a towel, you will sweat.】

Got to the top and just sat there for a while. Maybe five other people up there. One guy doing a full professional photo shoot with a tripod. Everyone else just sitting. The view isn't spectacular but the accomplishment feels good. Coming back down my legs were shaking and my feet felt like they were on fire. Stopped at 7-Eleven near the station and bought one of those instant ice packs. Sat on the curb outside and held it against my neck while people walked by. Two high school girls definitely laughed at me but I was too tired to care.

【Fushimi Inari tips: Go early like 7-8am or late afternoon after 4pm to avoid crowds. The full hike takes 2-3 hours depending on pace. Free entry. Wear good shoes. Bathrooms at the base and at the first viewing area but nowhere else.】

That night I tried to find a specific ramen place I'd saved on Google Maps but I couldn't figure out which building it was in. The address took me to a corner with like four different restaurants. Walked around the block twice, checked the map again, gave up. My phone was dying again anyway.

Went into a different ramen shop called Tenkaippin that looked busy. They're known for this really thick kotteri broth. Got the regular ramen, around 900 yen. The broth was incredibly rich, almost gravy-like. I loved it but I can see why some people wouldn't. 【Tenkaippin is a chain all over Kansai. The kotteri broth is polarizing. They also have assari which is lighter if you want something less intense.】

【Day 3 total: around 8,500 yen】

Day 4-5: Kyoto Temples

Day four I did the northern Kyoto temples. Started with Kinkakuji which was 500 yen entry. Got there around 9am and it was already pretty crowded. The pavilion is beautiful but you can't get close and the whole visit is maybe 30-40 minutes walking the garden path. 【Worth seeing but don't expect to spend more than an hour. Crowds get worse after 10am.】

Took bus 205 to Ginkakuji which was also 500 yen. Way less crowded and honestly I liked it more. The garden is more interesting and you can actually walk through the temple building. Spent about an hour here.

From Ginkakuji I walked the Philosopher's Path down to Nanzenji Temple. The path is about 2km, took me maybe 40 minutes. It's a canal with trees and some small temples and cafes along the way. Pleasant but not life changing. Stopped at a cafe called Gomachi Cafe about halfway through. Had matcha ice cream that was so bitter I could barely finish it. Should have just gotten regular. The cafe was cute though, right on the canal.

Nanzenji Temple was 600 yen and probably my favorite temple of the trip. It's huge, not too crowded, and has this massive gate you can climb for extra 600 yen. The temple grounds have several sub-temples. I spent almost 2 hours here just wandering. 【Highly recommend. Budget at least 1.5-2 hours. The garden is beautiful and there's a famous aqueduct on the grounds.】

My blisters popped on day five. That actually made it worse somehow. Had to buy more bandages and antibiotic cream at another Matsumoto Kiyoshi, around 800 yen. Ended up walking slower and taking more breaks which honestly made me notice more things. Small shops I would have walked past. A tiny shrine between two buildings. An old woman watering plants who smiled at me. Day five I did Arashiyama. Took the JR Sagano Line from Kyoto Station, around 240 yen and 15 minutes. The bamboo grove was extremely crowded even at 9am. It's beautiful but short, maybe 400 meters, and you're basically in a line of people shuffling through. 【Go at 7am if you want it empty, otherwise just accept the crowds. Takes 10-15 minutes.】

After the bamboo grove I walked up to the Monkey Park. Entry was 550 yen and the climb took about 20 minutes. Not too steep but all uphill. The monkeys just hang around at the top and don't care that you're there. There's a building where you can feed them through wire mesh, 100 yen per bag. I stayed probably 45 minutes just watching them.

【Totally worth it. Way less crowded than the bamboo grove and more interesting. The views over Kyoto are great too.】

Had lunch at a soba place near the bridge called Arashiyama Yoshimura, around 1,200 yen. The restaurant has big windows overlooking the river. The soba was good, really fresh. 【Gets busy 12-1pm so go before or after. They have English menus.】

【Day 4-5 total: around 18,500 yen】

Day 6: Nara Day Trip

Took the Kintetsu Line from Namba to Kintetsu Nara Station, 570 yen and 40 minutes. This drops you closer to the park than JR Nara Station. 【Kintetsu is better, saves you a 10 minute walk.】 The deer are exactly as aggressive as people say. Bought the crackers from a vendor for 200 yen and immediately got swarmed. One deer bit my jacket sleeve and wouldn't let go until I gave it the entire stack. Another one headbutted my leg. Funny but also slightly scary. 【The deer will mob you if you have crackers. Feed them fast then show your empty hands and they'll leave you alone.】 Todaiji Temple was 600 yen and absolutely worth it. The Buddha statue inside is massive, like 15 meters tall. You walk in and it just fills your entire field of vision. The building is apparently the largest wooden structure in the world. There were school groups there, all the kids so quiet and well behaved. 【Must see in Nara. Budget 45 minutes to an hour. Go early if possible, gets crowded by 11am.】

Had lunch at a place called Kamakura Pasta near the park. Ordered carbonara by pointing at the picture menu, around 1,100 yen. The woman working there brought me tea without asking and kept refilling it. When I left she said something I didn't understand but it sounded friendly so I just smiled and said thank you. 【This is a chain but the pasta was surprisingly good and it wasn't crowded. Good option for sit-down lunch.】

Walked around Naramachi after lunch. Narrow streets with traditional buildings, small shops and cafes. Way less touristy than the park area. Found a small pond called Sarusawa that was completely empty and really peaceful. 【If you have time, Naramachi is worth exploring. Very different vibe from the deer park.】

The train back to Osaka was packed. Had to stand for 40 minutes holding the overhead rail. My feet hurt and my backpack straps were digging into my shoulders. But I also felt okay. Like I was figuring it out.

【Day 6 total: around 8,000 yen】

Day 7: Osaka – Amerikamura and Izakaya Night

Day seven I went back to Osaka and just wandered around Amerikamura. It's this neighborhood full of vintage clothing stores, streetwear shops, and small cafes. Very different vibe from the rest of Osaka, younger crowd, more alternative fashion.

Bought a t-shirt from a thrift store called 2nd Street for 1,500 yen. They have multiple floors of used clothing and random stuff. Prices are decent for Japan. 【Good place for vintage shopping. Several 2nd Street locations around Osaka and Kyoto. Also check out Chicago thrift stores in the same area.】 Sat in Triangle Park and watched skateboarders for a while. Got takoyaki from a street vendor called Aizuya for 500 yen and burned my mouth because I didn't wait for it to cool down. Classic. 【Wait at least 3-4 minutes before eating takoyaki. The inside stays molten hot way longer than you think.】

That night I went to an izakaya by myself. This was the thing I'd been most nervous about. A bar felt different from a restaurant somehow. Picked one called Torikizoku near Namba that looked busy but not packed. Everything on the menu is 380 yen. Sat at the counter.

Ordered a beer and several yakitori skewers using the touch panel menu. They have an English option which helped. The guy next to me was alone too. Older, maybe 50s, business suit. We made eye contact and he said something in Japanese. I said sorry, English, and he switched. His English was decent. We talked for maybe 20 minutes about normal stuff. Where I'm from, what I do, how I'm liking Japan. He worked in pharmaceutical sales. Lived in Osaka his whole life. When I got up to leave he insisted on paying for my first beer. I tried to refuse but he waved me off. Said it was nice to practice English.

I thanked him and left. It was a nice moment but also I'd been hoping for more of those kinds of interactions and mostly it was just me walking around alone looking at things. Which was fine but not quite the cultural exchange I'd imagined. 【Torikizoku is great for solo dining. Touch panel ordering, cheap prices, casual atmosphere. Locations everywhere. Expect to spend 1,500-2,500 yen for a full meal with drinks.】

【Day 7 total: around 7,000 yen】

Day 8-9: Slower Days

Day eight and nine were slower. I was tired and my feet hurt constantly. The blisters had mostly healed but my feet just ached now from all the walking. Went to Osaka Aquarium on day eight. Entry was 2,700 yen which felt steep. It's a nice aquarium, the main tank has whale sharks, but I wouldn't call it a must-see. Spent about 2 hours there. 【Skip if you're not really into aquariums. It's expensive and Osaka has better things to spend time on.】

Walked around the harbor area after. There's a big ferris wheel I didn't go on. Mostly just sat by the water for a while watching boats. My phone died around 3pm and I didn't have my charger so I just sat there for like an hour doing nothing. It was actually kind of nice. Day nine I went back to Dotonbori during the day to see it without the crowds. Way different vibe, much quieter. Had lunch at Ichiran Ramen, finally found it in a building basement. The solo booth setup is interesting, you sit in a cubicle facing the wall. Ramen was around 1,000 yen and it was good but honestly not better than Tenkaippin. 【Ichiran is worth trying once for the experience but it's not the best ramen in Osaka. The solo booths are cool though if you're self-conscious about eating alone.】 Spent both evenings mostly at convenience stores. Family Mart became my default. Their fried chicken is legitimately good, 180 yen. Also got really into their egg salad sandwiches and onigiri. 【Convenience store food in Japan is actually good. Don't feel bad about eating there. Family Mart and Lawson both have great options.】

【Day 8-9 total: around 15,000 yen】

Day 10: Last Day

Last day I didn't have plans until my evening flight. Checked out of the hotel and stored my bag at Namba Station coin lockers, 600 yen for large size. Walked around Namba one more time. Went into Junkudo bookstore and looked at manga I couldn't read for like an hour. The bookstore is huge, multiple floors, has a Starbucks inside. Just a nice place to kill time.

Bought last minute snacks at Family Mart and Don Quijote. KitKat flavors you can't get in the US, around 600 yen per box. Some instant ramen. Random snacks. Spent probably 4,000 yen total on stuff to bring home.

Took the Nankai train back to the airport around 3pm, 920 yen and 40 minutes. Way better than the bus. 【Take the train to the airport not the bus. The Rapi is fastest at 34 minutes for 1,450 yen but the regular express is fine and cheaper.】

Sitting at the gate I felt relieved that I'd actually done it and also sad that it was over. The flight home was long and I barely slept. Got back to Seattle, took the light rail to my apartment, immediately crashed for 12 hours.

【Day 10 total: around 9,000 yen】

BUDGET BREAKDOWN

Accommodation: Hearton Hotel Nishi Umeda, around 9,000 yen per night x 9 nights = ~81,000 yen

Transportation: Mobile Suica loads plus airport transport = ~15,500 yen

Food: Restaurants, convenience stores, street food = ~55,000 yen

Attractions: All temples, castles, parks, aquarium = ~11,000 yen

Shopping: Souvenirs, snacks, clothing = ~12,000 yen

Miscellaneous: Coin lockers, drug store, etc. = ~5,000 yen

TOTAL: ~179,500 yen (around $1,200 USD at current rates)

Flights were about $850 round trip from Seattle.

RECOMMENDATIONS BY CATEGORYMust-Do in Osaka:

• Osaka Castle grounds (skip interior unless you really want to)

• Dotonbori at night • Shinsekai for kushikatsu at Daruma

• Amerikamura if you like

streetwear/vintage

Must-Do in Kyoto:

• Fushimi Inari (go early or late)

• Nanzenji Temple • Arashiyama Monkey Park

• Philosopher's Path walk

Must-Do in Nara:

• Todaiji Temple

• Feed the deer once

• Walk around Naramachi

Best Food:

• Daruma for kushikatsu in Shinsekai

• Tenkaippin for ramen (kotteri broth)

• Kani Doraku for crab kaiseki in

Dotonbori

• Torikizoku for cheap izakaya

• Family Mart fried chicken

Skippable:

• Osaka Aquarium (expensive, not worth the time)

• Kinkakuji (pretty but extremely crowded)

• Kuromon Market (overpriced for tourists)

• Ichiran Ramen (fine but overhyped)

If you're planning a trip and nervous about going alone, just go. Things will go wrong. You'll figure them out. The trip you have will be different from the trip you planned and that's kind of the point. Also set up mobile Suica before you go because the IC card shortage is apparently still a thing.

Happy to answer any questions about specific places, routes, or anything else.