Trip Report – 21 days in march – Japanese Alps (Gujo, Takayama, Shirakawa, Matsumoto and Azumino) + Kyoto and Tokyo (solo trip)

Reddit helped me a lot on this trip, so I decided to contribute as well.

I'm a 33M and this was my second trip to Japan, the first one was in 2023. The first time I went with my family along the Golden Route, and this time I decided to go to the Alps alone. Just don't expect any hiking, as I have a knee injury.

My travel style isn't about making a checklist of attractions, but rather about scheduling something else in a particular region, going there, and discovering other things, preferably on foot.

I tried to avoid the cherry blossoms because I saw online that the kawazu blooms at the end of February and the most famous one is at the end of March due to the high prices and crowds. I ended up seeing both and it was a very good experience, making the cities more beautiful and creating a hanami atmosphere.

First day: I arrived in Narita around 3 pm and from there I went straight to Nagoya by train.

Days 1 to 4: Nagoya is not boring

I decided to start the trip in Nagoya because it's the "gateway to the Alps." If you're looking for a large, bustling city, but without the tourist madness of Tokyo, this is the place for you. Many attractions for all tastes, from quiet streets to temples of national importance, to bustling blocks and options for those who want to stay up late, incredible public transport, and wonderful cuisine (the famous Nagoya Meshi), here the highlight is the hitsu-mabushi..

I was lucky enough to see the first cherry blossoms on a quiet, tree-lined street (Okanzakura) in the city.

Highlights:

Atsuta Houraiken: a restaurant that serves Hitsuma-bushi, a grilled eel dish said to originate from Nagoya. It was one of the best meals of the trip; go early because the lines are huge.

Atsuta Jingu: A temple near the Atsuta Houraiken I visited, there's one of the most famous temples in Japan, and it houses one of the imperial treasures. It reminded me a lot of the vibe of Meiji Jingu, but smaller.

Nagoya Castle: you can't go inside the castle, but there's a reconstructed wing called Honmaru Goten that's absolutely beautiful, with gold-leafed screens and period paintings.

Tokugawa Museum: full of treasures from the Tokugawa clan, which offer a glimpse into the atmosphere of feudal Japan.

– Misokatsu Yabaton: Another representative of Nagoya Meshi, the restaurant's signature dish is tonkatsu served with the region's miso sauce, called misokatsu, and it's very good.

* Day trip to Gujo Hachiman: a small, peaceful town in the countryside with a unique beauty, full of water springs and rivers that run through it, it's a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of a big city.

Days 5 to 7: Takayama

Easily accessible from Nagoya, I've heard it's one of the most beautiful train routes in Japan, and the journey itself is truly worthwhile, the route is crossed by the Hida River, mountain ranges, valleys, and rural towns.

A tourist town, but not too much. With small streets and a center with historic buildings, it's a place to relax and enjoy a more tranquil atmosphere; the region is famous for its hida beef (a relative of Kobe beef).

The historic center and the riverside market, which operates in the mornings which is a good place for you to try small portions of typical foods, are the bustling areas of the city, but if you prefer something more tranquil, just walk a few blocks further and the city's charm remains.

Highlights:

– 麺屋真菜: This restaurant which serves Takayama Ramen, a typical regional dish, is small and family-run. When I went, only the son was there, doing everything by himself. It's definitely worth a visit, I found it near my hotel and was a great surprise.

Matsuki Sushi: I got this tip on Reddit and it was one of the best tirashizushi I've ever had; I had to go back and try the version with tuna slices. The staff was very welcoming and attentive.

Sanmachi district: The streets and old buildings are really crowded on the main streets, but if you walk a few blocks you'll find the same atmosphere with fewer people.

Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine: One of the most beautiful temples I saw on this trip, and I was lucky enough to see a fully adorned priestess leading an elderly woman for a ritual.

Hie Shrine: A temple located a little outside the city center, close to nature, which exudes tranquility, is good for those seeking a less crowded place.

* Day trip to Shirakawago: The village is very famous and truly beautiful. I was lucky that it was snowing, which made it even more magical. I bought the bus tickets a few weeks in advance, and on the day some of the buses were full so pay attention to that. I think you can see the whole village in 3-4 hours, since the attractions are repetitive, I went inside one of the typical houses in the village, and I think that was enough. It was by far the busiest place in the Alps, but it was well worth it.

Days 8 to 9: Gero

I spent two nights in Gero because I wanted to relax and make the most of my stay at a ryokan. The town is small and doesn't have many attractions, but it does have many natural beauties and hot springs scattered around, yet it's full of tourists, the vast majority of whom are Japanese, which surprised me.

If you're looking for a typical, charming, and cozy town, it's a good choice.

Highlights:

– Yunoshimakan: A nearly 100-year-old ryokan that once hosted the emperor. I stayed in a room with a private onsen overlooking the mountains, and it was incredible. The hotel is beautiful, but it has typical Showa-era architecture with European elements; if you're looking for something modern, this isn't the place for you. The hotel staff was wonderful, the traditional Japanese food they served was delicious, especially the dinner, which had a different menu each of the two nights.

Days 10 to 12: Matsumoto

From Gero I went to Matsumoto by train, to Nagoya and from there to Matsumoto. Yes, it would have been possible to take a more circular route (Matsumoto > Takayama > Gero), but due to the availability of the Yunoshimakan it wasn't possible, and of course you can go to Takayama and then go by bus to Matsumoto, but I prefer trains and the travel time was almost the same.

Matsumoto has the feel of a medium-sized inland town, with a bit of activity and the streets becoming quiet around 8~9 pm. The Crow Castle is truly beautiful, unlike any other. The historic district is full of white houses with dark roofs, setting it apart from other historic districts in the cities I've visited.

The mountain range seen around the city also adds to the charm of this place.

Highlights:

– The Crow Castle: A castle with parts painted black contrasted with a red bridge, and a surrounding park filled with people strolling, boasted a timid bloom of cherry trees, which made the place even more interesting. There is a museum inside the castle, which makes the entrance fee worthwhile.

Sushi Ten: One of the best sushis I've ever eaten in my life, a small restaurant with a friendly staff and impeccable food, again a recomendation from reddit.

* Day trip to Azumino: I visited Daio Wasabi Farm; the journey there is long but incredibly beautiful, surrounded by a mountain range. I walked, but I saw some people going by bicycle (rented near the station) and followed a route that passed by some temples. It's well worth it if you want something different on your itinerary; the way they grow wasabi is very unique, and the place is very beautiful. If you go, try the Wasabi Beer.

Days 13 to 16: Kyoto

I confess that even after a tourist route through the Alps, it was a little strange to arrive in Kyoto with so many tourists.

This time I decided to avoid the most crowded and famous places and visit the north/northeast region of the city, and indeed, there were few tourists and very quiet streets. There are many little-visited and very beautiful temples in the region with a more local city atmosphere. I visited places I really enjoyed the first time I went, such as Yasaka Shrine and an afternoon walk along the Kamo River.

Here the cherry trees were already more prominent, and some were in full bloom.

Highlights:

Honenin Temple: a hidden temple, very peaceful and very beautiful, surrounded by nature; if there were about 4 tourists inside, that was a lot.

Shimogamo Shrine: A large temple in northern Kyoto, with many Japanese visitors (perhaps it was the March 20th holiday), surrounded by a large park.

I had the pleasure of meeting a couple in traditional wedding attire; the bride wore a completely white kimono and hat, and carried a traditional red umbrella. She was truly uniquely beautiful.

Yodo Kawazu Zakura: Cherry blossoms in full bloom surrounding an urban river, a truly unique landscape with few tourists in the morning, it was a park-like area, and many Japanese people were strolling around, enjoying the cherry blossoms.

Kyoto Insider Sake Experience: It was a really interesting experience, a 3-hour tour with a visit to a sake museum and then a tasting with food pairings. I learned things about sake production and different types that I never even imagined.

Musashi Sushi: A simple restaurant with few seats and no tablets for ordering, the sushi is delicious and very cheap, another tip from reddit.

* Day trip to Uji: The city of matcha. It has a river that runs along it, creating stunning scenery, especially the Byodo-in temple, which is beautifully reflected in the surrounding lake, there's also a very good museum there. Besides buying matcha and get to know the city, I also visited Uji to eat the famous wagyu ramen at the Michelin-starred Menya Inoichi, and it really is wonderful and very affordable. They said this shop had a shorter line, and I ended up waiting about 30 minutes to eat.

Day 17 to 21: Tokyo

I bought the train ticket before arriving in Kyoto to reserve a seat with a view of Mount Fuji, I believe that due to the holiday there weren't many empty seats even about five days in advance, and it was well worth it; I had a breathtaking view.

I stayed in Akihabara, and it was literally across the street from the station. It was a good choice for me, as I like to see activity and discover that the area is much more than just anime and electronics stores, It was great to be in the area; a walk of less than 30 minutes took me to Ueno Park, which was one of the places I also wanted to visit, and I ended up spending a morning there enjoying the spring festival that was taking place, with lots of food stalls.

Tokyo is a city with incredible energy, and even though it's very crowded, it's a must-see on any itinerary. This time I visited Roppongi and Asakusa areas and it turned out to be a great choice; Roppongi is full of art and modern architecture, Asakusa, on the other hand, has that more typical atmosphere of what we know as Japan, with streets full of neon lights, more traditional architecture, and many tourists strolling around in kimonos.

Highlights:

Nezu Museum: A small museum with Chinese and Japanese artifacts, some dating back to the 13th century BC. It has a beautiful garden inside that makes the experience amazing.

Meguro River: It's not an unknown place, but it was full of cherry trees just starting to bloom, lots of people strolling around, and a great spot for a walk.

The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures: It's included with admission to the Tokyo National Museum and features a variety of incredible sculptures.

The National Art Center Tokyo: Unique architecture, a space to enjoy a good coffee and see exhibitions.

Sumida Park: The banks of the Sumida River are a great spot to see the Tokyo Skytree, and since it was hanami season, there were many people strolling around.

Kaiten Zushi Ginza Onodera: a more refined conveyor belt sushi; it's far from cheap, but the quality is excellent.

Hama Sushi: This conveyor belt sushi place falls into the more affordable category, has good food, and of the ones I went to, it was the only one in that price range that had sea urchin on the menu, which was a big plus for me since I love sea urchin.

by Rockt7